I never sharpen unless the original is clearly out of focus and then it works surprisingly well. Since the rule is to create the "best file" you can from the start you might try one versus 2 line and see if you can tell the difference on a large print.Īs I have mostly Velvia50 exposed during the middle of the day I use DEE a lot to bring out shadow detail (start at 20/ 180 and leave the highlight slider alone unless your highlights are blown or nearly so) I also think you can chose one or 2 line scanning on the 9000 (I only have 2 line). I can't tell the difference between 8x and 16x. I use 8x pass (one of the benefits of this scanner, kind of like a virtual drum scan, same idea, in that the scanner's sensor "noise" is eliminated) The result is way better than single pass. You may not need this for 120mm material. Turns out "grain" is one cause of the "gray haze" that reduces the clarity of files.
GEM at a setting of 2 (a recent addition to my workflow) which reduces grain with only minimal loss of resolution. TIFF 16bit (again you can't go back) though I'm not entirely sure I can yet tell the difference, even on large prints). Once you lose color "gamut" you can't get it back. ICE normal (unless you want to spend all day "spotting".) I find essentially no loss of resolution.ĪdobeRBG (convert to sRBG for the web). These settings are verified by examination of 16" by 20"(or so) prints done on an Epson3800 inkjet.
Jpeg settings nikon scan 4 software#
I have the 5000ED but I think the software is the same. You could convert to sRGB at the same time as converting to 8-bit if you need to do both. If you are sending out to a lab or producing for the web or to distribute to others digitally, work in sRGB. When done, you can output the final 8-bit JPEG file.Īnother tip is to work in AdobeRGB colour space if you have a colour-managed workflow and are printing to an inkjet. Scan like this then use Nikon Scan or photoshop to adjust levels, curves colour balance etc afterwards.
Jpeg settings nikon scan 4 full#
If mounting the camera to the octocopter for example, one could set the Interval to 10 seconds, the total number of intervals to 50, and the number of images at each interval to two.Somebody could tell me some advises and settings for scaning 35mm and 120mm at high quality, in Nikon Coolscan 9000 Ed and workflow?Īdjust analogue gain to get a full non-clipped histogram, if necessary. Select Intvl*Shots: This setting ask you to set 1. Interval: Sets the amount of time between each interval using hours, minutes, and/or seconds (one second minimum)ģ. If using Start Time, make sure the cameras time setting is correctĢ. Start: Two options exist including “Now” (starts taking images right away) or “Start Time” (allows you to set a time (e.g.
To use this setting, three setting must be set:ġ. – Intvl Timer Shooting: This setting can be used to take a predetermined number of images with a certain amount of time between each shot. Otherwise turning on compression will cut the size of RAW images from 16MB to 9MB – RAW Compression: If memory card space is not an issue, set to “NEF (RAW)” for no compression. – JPEG Compression: For highest quality set to “Optimal Quality” –Make sure you select “Done” after making adjustments to theses settings or they will be lost. – Optimize Image: Use these “Custom” settings and adjust as needed: Capturing RAW images will preserve all image information and give you much more control over editing later – Image Quality: Use either the “NEF (RAW)” or “NEF (RAW)+JPEG” image quality setting. – Rotate Tall: Set “Rotate Tall” to Off if the images are to be used for photogrammetry or GIS applications Along with the generic advise given in the Acquire Images for Close-Range Photogrammetry and Custom White Balance for Nikon D200 IR posts, here are some important settings to consider when using the standard or IR modified Nikon D200 cameras: